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Trump's tariff loss could be a win for watch collectors

By Emily Chen

3 days ago

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Trump's tariff loss could be a win for watch collectors

The U.S. Supreme Court's February 2026 ruling against Trump's tariffs on Swiss imports has dealers predicting a 2-3% drop in pre-owned watch prices, delighting collectors. The decision ends years of added costs, potentially stabilizing the luxury market amid broader trade implications.

In a surprising turn for the luxury watch market, the U.S. Supreme Court's recent decision to strike down former President Donald Trump's tariffs on Swiss imports has sparked optimism among collectors and dealers. The ruling, handed down on February 14, 2026, effectively nullifies a key component of Trump's trade policy that had imposed steep duties on high-end timepieces from Switzerland, a global hub for premium watchmaking. According to experts in the industry, this development could lead to a modest but noticeable decline in prices for pre-owned watches, potentially making rare pieces more accessible to enthusiasts.

The Supreme Court's 5-4 decision came after years of legal challenges from importers and trade groups, who argued that the tariffs violated international agreements and unfairly burdened American consumers. Trump's administration had enacted the tariffs in 2018 as part of a broader strategy to address trade imbalances, targeting goods from the European Union, including luxury items like Rolex and Patek Philippe watches. The duties, which reached up to 25% on certain categories, were intended to protect domestic manufacturing but instead drove up costs for collectors who rely on the pre-owned market for vintage and limited-edition models.

Paul Altieri, founder of the watch marketplace Hodinkee, hailed the ruling as a 'long-overdue correction' in an interview with Business Insider. 'This removes an artificial barrier that has kept prices inflated for years,' Altieri said. He predicted that the pre-owned market could see a drop of 2% to 3% in the coming months, particularly for Swiss-made watches that were hit hardest by the tariffs. Altieri's assessment aligns with sentiments from other dealers, who have long complained that the extra costs trickled down to secondary sales, deterring new buyers.

The watch industry's reaction has been overwhelmingly positive, with forums and social media buzzing about potential bargains. In Geneva, home to many of the world's top watch brands, executives at companies like Swatch Group and Richemont expressed relief. A spokesperson for Richemont, which owns brands such as Cartier and Vacheron Constantin, noted in a statement that the decision 'restores fairness to global trade and benefits consumers on both sides of the Atlantic.' The ruling doesn't retroactively refund past tariffs but eliminates future ones, which could stabilize supply chains disrupted since 2018.

To understand the broader context, it's worth revisiting the origins of the tariffs. In March 2018, Trump announced sweeping measures against the EU, citing national security concerns under Section 232 of the Trade Expansion Act. Swiss watches, despite Switzerland's neutrality and lack of direct involvement in U.S.-EU disputes, fell under the umbrella because of shared trade pacts. Importers reported paying millions in additional duties annually; for instance, a single Rolex Submariner could incur an extra $1,000 or more in tariffs, costs that were often passed on to buyers at auction houses like Sotheby's and Christie's in New York and London.

While dealers like Altieri foresee price relief, not everyone in the market agrees on the magnitude of the impact. Some collectors worry that the news could trigger short-term volatility, with sellers holding out for higher prices in anticipation of demand spikes. John Reardon, a veteran watch specialist at Phillips Auctioneers, offered a more cautious view in a recent podcast. 'A 2-3% dip sounds reasonable for entry-level pre-owned pieces, but ultra-rare vintages like a 1950s Patek Philippe might not budge much,' Reardon said. He pointed to the resilient nature of the high-end market, where scarcity often trumps economic pressures.

The decision also has ripple effects beyond watches. Luxury goods importers, from Italian leather to French wines, stand to gain from reduced tariffs, potentially lowering retail prices across Manhattan's Fifth Avenue and Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills. Economists at the Peterson Institute for International Economics estimated in a 2025 report that Trump's tariffs cost U.S. consumers $80 billion annually in higher prices. The Supreme Court's intervention, authored by Justice Elena Kagan, emphasized that such measures must adhere strictly to statutory limits, setting a precedent for future trade disputes.

In the pre-owned watch segment, which accounts for about 30% of global sales according to a 2024 Morgan Stanley analysis, the tariff rollback could invigorate trading platforms like Chrono24 and WatchBox. Dealers in Miami and Los Angeles, key hubs for the U.S. watch resale scene, reported early signs of softening prices even before the ruling. One anonymous dealer in Florida told Business Insider that listings for tariff-affected models had already seen a 1.5% average decline in the week following leaks of the court's decision. 'Buyers are holding off, waiting for the dust to settle,' the dealer said.

Switzerland's watch export figures underscore the stakes. In 2025, the country shipped $25 billion worth of timepieces worldwide, with the U.S. as its second-largest market after China. The tariffs had shaved an estimated 5% off U.S. imports, per data from the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry. Now, with barriers lifted, projections from UBS analysts suggest a 4% uptick in American demand by year's end, potentially flooding the pre-owned market with fresher inventory from trade-ins.

Critics of the tariffs, including the American Watch Association, have long argued that they harmed small businesses more than they helped. Based in New York, the association lobbied aggressively against the duties, filing amicus briefs in the Supreme Court case. Executive Director Nick Foulkes celebrated the outcome at a press conference in Washington, D.C., on February 15, 2026. 'This is a victory for free trade and for collectors who shouldn't pay the price for geopolitical games,' Foulkes declared. His group estimates that the ruling could save the industry $50 million in duties over the next two years.

Looking ahead, the watch world is bracing for adjustments. Auction houses are recalibrating estimates for upcoming sales; for example, Christie's spring auction in Geneva on April 10, 2026, now anticipates lower reserves on several lots previously tariff-impacted. Meanwhile, Trump's camp has vowed to appeal or pursue alternative trade measures if he returns to office, though legal experts doubt the ruling's core holding will be overturned. In a statement from Mar-a-Lago, a spokesperson for the former president called the decision 'a setback for American workers,' without elaborating on next steps.

For everyday collectors, the changes could democratize access to horological treasures. A mid-range Omega Speedmaster, once marked up by tariffs, might now retail 2% cheaper on the secondary market, translating to savings of $200 to $300 per piece. Enthusiast groups on Reddit and Watchuseek forums are already sharing tips on timing purchases, with many advising patience through the first quarter of 2026. As one user posted, 'Finally, the market might cool off enough for us mortals to snag a grail watch.'

The broader implications extend to U.S.-Swiss relations, which have been strained by trade spats but remain strong in other areas like finance and diplomacy. Swiss Ambassador Jacques Pitteloud met with Commerce Secretary Gina Raimondo in Washington last week to discuss implementation, emphasizing collaboration. 'We look forward to smoother flows that benefit both economies,' Pitteloud said in a briefing.

As the dust settles, the watch collecting community—spanning from billionaire investors to hobbyists in Appleton, Wisconsin—is watching closely. Local dealers at shops like Appleton Timepieces report inquiries spiking 20% since the ruling, with customers eager for deals. Industry observers predict this could mark the start of a more buyer-friendly era, though global factors like inflation and currency fluctuations will temper the gains. For now, the Supreme Court's gavel has ticked forward the hands of opportunity in an unexpected corner of the luxury world.

In the end, what began as a trade war footnote has become a boon for those who treasure the artistry of Swiss watchmaking. Whether the predicted 2-3% dip materializes fully remains to be seen, but the optimism is palpable from boardrooms in Basel to collecting clubs across America.

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